We have the Wolfer Nation 2.0 platform up and running. We do not have all the links from Wolfer Nation hooked up yet. We will have the site you are on now, it will stay as an active site to go back too and look at videos and trapping post. It would be a shame to loose …View full post
We are having a Black Friday Sale from Nov 26 – 1 Dec 2013. You guys have been great customers and we wanted to have a sale of some kind for you. So we are jumping on the Black Friday band wagon. We have some of our lures and baits and even or Cat Collector …View full post
Hi Clint, I have a couple questions and I thought u would reply the quickest being the seasons approaching very fast I need some answers. Coyote/Fox season opens on Oct. 15th in Michigan (were i’m from, Jackson Michigan) and I wanted to snare hard this year I have to much land to the amount of …View full post
If you are a young fellow, listen up! If you have dreams of being a fire breathing long lining state hopping trapper, you better pick your wife correctly. Let me tell you a fact, this is a fact that will not change no matter who you are. You will not change a woman no different …View full post
We have the Wolfer Nation 2.0 platform up and running. We do not have all the links from Wolfer Nation hooked up yet. We will have the site you are on now, it will stay as an active site to go back too and look at videos and trapping post. It would be a shame to loose over 500 trapping post.
We are still playing with the other site, but we alrady have it loaded with new videos and post. To check out the new site, CLICK HERE. Keep in mind that they are not linked togather yet. Once all the back end of the site is worked out, you will use the same web-site name and address to reach Wolfer Nation 2.0
Check it out and let me know what you think.
We are having a Black Friday Sale from Nov 26 – 1 Dec 2013. You guys have been great customers and we wanted to have a sale of some kind for you. So we are jumping on the Black Friday band wagon.
We have some of our lures and baits and even or Cat Collector DVD at a super low price only for a few days. This sale is over Monday Dec 1st 2013. If you were thinking about these products, you will want to order now. I doubt you will see these prices again.
Check out the sales at our store at http://www.wolfernation.com/pcgstore/
I hope everyone’s season is going well, the trapping season and the holidays.
Hi Clint, I have a couple questions and I thought u would reply the quickest being the seasons approaching very fast I need some answers. Coyote/Fox season opens on Oct. 15th in Michigan (were i’m from, Jackson Michigan) and I wanted to snare hard this year I have to much land to the amount of leg holds I have and simply just can’t afford more so I bought dozens of snares. Now this is only my second year trapping, and I have obtained gobs of information through wolfernation and trapper radio but still am a little flustered. I have spent thousands of dollars in supplies this summer so I need to make sure I can at least earn my money back. My question to you is snare location, I can’t Afford a dvd right now and have already contacted all of my trapper companions on this subject but still need a better understanding. I am trapping crp fields, corn fields, bean fields, hardwoods, marshes, and alot of riverbottom country on the grand river. I’m confused wether to set snares along game trails “deer trails” or if there is a true coyote trail I need to look for. Obviosely getting out there and observing the land looking for travel corridors will help but I want a edge before season starts. I have so much ground to cover and I want to get all of my sets in the ground before coon opens on the first of nov. Please if you could explain a little bit about snare location and what I need to look for to help me be one step ahead of the game come the 15th.
Thanks N. G.
Well, this is a question that can not be explained in writing, but I will help if I can . I know your short on money, but my High Performance Snaring dvd will help you out more than an email. The reason, is you can see location on video, not in words.
Coyotes do not make trails per say, they use other trails. They follow prey to jump them. So they use the same trails. Sometimes they widen out a rabbit trail if there are a lot of rabbits around. Foxes use the trails in the same manner. What you have to do is block down these trails or go up and down them to find a choke point. If you have a trail that goes a long way fox and coyotes will use them. The trick to catching a lot of fox and coyotes in snares is to set a lot of snares on a lot of trails.
What you don’t wont to do is set coyote snares on very active deer trails. If the trail looks like a herd of deer running down it every day don’t set it. If you do, you are asking for trouble. A lot of times you can find smaller trails off to the side of the active deer trails and you can set them without deer trouble.
If you find a long running trail, set it. If it is a larger trail set 3-4 snares on it.
I don’t know if this will help you or not. Snaring location are not something that comes across in writing as well as seeing. Set the snares, pay attention to where you catch stuff and try and figure out why. Like it or not snaring in numbers takes experience, so it is up to you to get the experience. Good luck in MI this year.
On the DVD's I bought of you setting flat and dirt hole sets you are carrying blue cans with peat moss and grass clippings and my question is, how and what do you do to each to prepare them for use on the trap line..scent elimination and drying would be my concerns.... from M.M.
There is nothing to do about scent, both peat moss and grass clipping are natural products. natural peat moss just smells earthy. Just make sure, your peat moss does not have some form of additive in it, like fertilizer or something. The grass clippings ar no different, thats what a coyote smells after a field is cut with a bush hog.
I only buy peat moss that is dry and light. I don’t do anything with it except go use it. Some guys I know will sift it at home. I just crumble in my hands as I just it. Grass clippings should be treated like hay. Rake out on drive way or cardboard. Rake it around over a few days and it will dry out. Place this is a burlap bag or fur bag and it will last for a few years in a in closed building.
If you are a young fellow, listen up! If you have dreams of being a fire breathing long lining state hopping trapper, you better pick your wife correctly. Let me tell you a fact, this is a fact that will not change no matter who you are. You will not change a woman no different than a woman will not change a man. So you need to find a good wife that will support what you want to do. It takes a strong independent girl to put up with a high rolling trapper. You will be asking her to become a trapping widow for weeks at a time as you run around the country chasing fur. The is what happens if you DO NOT pick the right wife.
If you want to find a awesome wife, you need to find one like Cindy, my wife. If not you will think the below story board is not that funny.
The wrong wife for a trapper when your dating her.
The wrong trapper’s wife when you are married and trapping hard.
The wrong trapper’s after she decides she wants a normal husband.
The trapper when he is dating.
The trapper after he is married to the wrong woman.
The trapper after the wrong trapper’s wife gets even with him for his trapping lifestyle.
National Trappers Association Alert
Last December Michigan’s legislature made the wolf a game animal and during the winter our Natural Resource Commission opened a management season of 43 wolves in three small areas of the Upper Peninsula of Michigan. These three areas have been having ongoing problems with depredation of livestock and dogs being killed by wolves. Nonlethal means have been used to attempt stopping the wolves but problems continue. Midwinter Keep Michigan Wolves Protected a front organization for the HSUS collected enough signatures to bring this up for a ballot referendum vote in November of 2014. This put a stop to the hunt.
Late winter the legislature gave the Natural Resource Commission the authority to name a game animal. The NRC made the wolf a game animal and approved a season. However, this season, unlike the one previously stopped, excluded trapping. It is suspected that pressure was put upon the MDNR and NRC which bowed to pressure applied by the Governor’s office which was heavily leaned on by countless supporters of HSUS. This action is not subject to a Referendum vote so KMWP started collecting signatures to remove the law that gave the NRC this authority. We expect that they will collect enough signatures to get this on the ballot in November of 2014 also as the HSUS has never failed to do this. The wolf hunt will go on this year because they can’t get signatures collected and certified in time to stop it.
The sporting groups have banded together to fight both Referendums and we are in the process of raising money to do this. History tells us that we need between three and five million dollars to make a difference at the ballot box. The trappers are doing a fur and hide fund raiser to help beat the anti’s back. We are collecting deer hides within the state which will be sold and that money will go to fight the anti’s. We are also doing a fur fund raiser. We have set up NAFA and FHA accounts that any trapper that ships to either organization can donate one or two hides. When you ship a hide you can donate by designating that they go to the Defend the Hunt program through the Michigan Trappers and Predator Callers Association accounts.. Trappers from anywhere in Michigan or from across the nation can help us with this and help is needed. We will also be taking donations at all six of our association fur sales. Here is a link to the web site set up for all groups collecting money right now our deer hide fundraiser is up on it. http://www.defendthehunt.com/ By December we should have the fur aspect up on the web site.
Thanks for your help with this and be careful out there. May your traps and memories be full.
2815 Washington Avenue
Bedford, Indiana 47421
Toll Free: 1-866-680-8727
My name is Garrett B. from north Texas, I am 12 years old and new to trapping. I wanted to thank you for the advice that you gave me about my pan tension on bobcats, it has really helped me a ton. I also wanted to say how awesome your Cat Collector lure works. I would recommend it to any and every cat trapper as their main lure for cats. In just a couple days with only 4 sets out I caught 3 cats with the lure. The cats absolutely love it even after being caught the cats dug out the lure from the hole and started chewing on it and rubbing in it. The lure works so well that you don’t even need a flag for some of the sets as soon as they get a wif they are like a heat seeking missile to the set. I am extraordinarily impressed with the lure, I have attached some links of some of the bobcats I have caught with it.
Why use two traps at a coyote set?
By Clint Locklear
I always use two traps at my coyote sets. I also get asked all the time, why I use two traps at my coyotes sets. Trust me I have a reason and it is not because I can’t catch coyotes with a single trap. I hear all the time from ….on-line…. that a good trapper does not need two traps, because a good trapper knows were coyote will place his foot at a set. I always smile to myself when I here this. I know it is good to have this attitude, but putting ego aside, it is delusional.
The main reason is that a trapper DOES NOT KNOW which coyote will show up to the set. Oh yes, there are different coyotes in the woods. One is an adult coyote, dumber pup coyotes, skittish coyotes and bold coyotes. There are coyotes that have a degree in trapping or is the coyote a virgin to the trapping game. So as you can see the reactions of these different coyotes will cause ….the right…trap placement at a set to be very, very different. Young pup coyotes, bold coyotes and virgin coyotes will work the sets more for the front. Don’t believe me, how many true adult coyotes do fur trappers catch as a percentage to adult coyotes. The reason is simple, young coyotes work the sets more from the front like most coyotes sets are constructed. The adult, more skittish coyotes will work the set more times than not, from the back of the set. Why, do they do this? This is another long topic, but they do.
So the question for the non-ego logical thinking trapper should ask. What coyotes am I trapping for. If your just running and gunning with good coyote population, pup trapping is a money maker. The ADC trapper or trapper that is helping a landowner for game management, needs to catch the adults and pups.
So why do I think using two traps at a coyote set is a good trapping policy?
I want to catch the pup and adult coyotes at the same set. It is that simple! Since most young coyotes work the set from the front, I have a trap in the front of the hole at a dirt hole set. I also have a trap somewhere in the back or side of the set for adult coyotes. I guess I could set one trap, but why? I want to catch all coyotes that come up and investigate my sets. I don’t care if it is a pup or a 6 year old dominate male or female. I want him or her going home with me, period!
Pockets sets, PVC raccoon sets, Blind sets, Dog proof trap, lure on a stick for raccoons, thoughts from Dustin
Trapping Book Review
Autobiography of Leggett’s Fox Trapping Methods
By Ron & Pete Leggett
Title: Autobiography of Leggett’s Fox Trapping Methods by Ron and Pete Leggett
Book category: Fox Trapping
Book Length: 52 pages
Pictures: Several, including diagrams- all black and white
Who is this designed for? Fox trapping
Who is this not designed for? Fox only book, no snow trapping or snaring
Rating system: 1-10 (1 = poor, 3 = below average, 5 = average, 7 = above average, 9-10 = excellent)
Leggett’s Fox Trapping Methods by Ron and his father Pete Leggett, is a fifty-two page start to finish book about fox trapping. Chapters include information about the red and grey fox, pre-season planning, traps, lures, urines, bait, locations, sets, pelt handling, and more.
For me, the positives of this book are numerous. These include the diagrams of and photos of farms (and other similar locations) with the sets, as well as the cardinal directions clearly marked.
The cardinal directions come in handy, as the Leggett’s discuss the importance of wind direction as it relates to set locations (how lure smells carry), as well as how humidity and weather fronts can affect your catch.
I also appreciate the segment on softcatch traps in the traps and stakes chapter, as softcatch traps are a requirement where I trap. Though the traps are basically the same as their non-padded counterparts, there are some nuances that can be problematic if not treated differently.
In addition to the more traditional aspects of the book, the Leggett’s also talk about urine collection. This entails what to feed your fox, cleaning the collection pen, and tips on the urine uncontaminated.
Other topics of interest include: scent control, opinions on baiting and pre-baiting, learning to make the deep step-down dirthole and the tapered step-down dirthole, trapline equipment, lures, using wire stretchers, and how to comb the fur for a fuller look.
As good as this book is, there are some aspects that I think could have been tweaked to enhance it even more. First, one of the most well-known aspects of their success is their set, the step-down dirthole, but this topic is pushed all the way back to chapter fifteen, which in and of itself isn’t a big factor, but several times throughout the book, they mention their set, and then state it is found in chapter fifteen. As I said, it’s not a huge deal, but if you don’t jump to chapter fifteen to read about the set, you may not fully understand some of the things discussed in earlier chapters.
I also felt the anti-freeze chapter felt a little dated, as there is no mention of using peat moss, wax dirt, or propylene glycol. Instead, sodium nitrate (a fertilizer) is the only thing discussed other than collecting and using dry dirt. But these quips aside, there is little to complain about in this book.
Overall, this book is a definite purchase for anyone who wants a start to finish approach on fox trapping, as well as anyone wanting to learn the Leggett method to making large catches of fox. A solid book on fox trapping.
by Brandon M.
Note from Clint…….I took intruction from the Leggetts years ago. They brought the us the high speed modern fox trapping we know today. They are great trappers, but more than that, they are the best folks you will ever want to meet. I know I was blessed to spend a few days with them both.
Lets have a dog proof trap test, shall we!
How much trigger movement before the dog proof trap fires.
How far does the trigger move on the push or pull trigger before the trap fires off.
How much pressure does it take to fire or move the trigger on a dog proof trap.
How many pounds or ounces does it take to fire a dog proof trap.
As most of you know there are a lot of Dog Proof traps on the market today. Most of these will catch raccoon, no doubt. Since there are many DP traps on the market, trappers say this one is better for this or that reason. Some fire sooner or with less trigger pull. I have received many e-mails about this and we have all seen the dog fights on trapper forums about why trap A is better than trap B. So I figured I would do a test on the Z Trap, Dagger, Duke, Freedom Brand, T-3 Bridger and Little Grizz trap. These are the traps I had on hand. I know there are other traps out there, but these are the most popular on the market. So I tested the trap throw distance, push throw distance and pressure on the trigger to fire the dog proof trap.
Before we get started with the number. I don’t sell traps. I have no traps in this mix that are my design. I am doing this for information sake. I was curious, so I tested them. All the traps were super clean or new for the test. I tested them with a fish scale and poundage push tester for the trigger tension. I used a wire to fire the traps. If I was testing the push of a trap, I would push the wire on the trigger till it fired. Then reset trap. I would measure the hump in the wire that the hold bar would leave on the wire to the original place the hold bar would move to hit the wire. On the pull, I would do the same but with a hook bent into the wire to pull the trigger.
This winter you will be able to see the test on TrapperTV. This is a project PCG is working on right now that will be live for viewing after the first of the year.
How far is the distance that is required for the trigger move up … pull….to fire the trap.
Z Trap = .75 inch, Dagger = .75 inch, Little Grizz = 5/8 inch, Freedom Brand = 0 *, Duke .75 inch, T-3 Bridger 1 inch
How far does the trigger move down before the trap fires on a trap that has a push/pull trigger.
Z Trap = .25 inch, Dagger = .25 inch, Freedom Brand = 1/8 inch *
How much poundage is required to fire the trap by pulling up on the trigger.
Little Grizz = 1.5 pound, Duke = .25 pound, Z Trap = 1 pound, Freedom Brand = .25*, T-3 = 1.5 pound, Dagger = 1 pound
How many pounds to fire the trap when the trigger is pushed down.
Z Trap = .50 pounds, Freedom Brand = .25 pound *, Dagger = 1.5 pound
So, what does all this mean? I don’t really know. We have to keep in mind that these numbers will be higher once all the sticky slop we as raccoon trappers put into our traps. Throw in some mud and a little rust and these numbers WILL be higher.
Now I’m not a scientist, I do not own a white lab coat, but I do have a camo over shirt. I can only use reason a logic as to what these numbers mean. To me it makes sense that since a raccoon is not an enraged gorilla slamming his hands into and out of a dog proof trap. Raccoon have very nimble fingers and they have no reason to ….grab… a trigger and jerk. They genitally pick out the bait. This is how so many traps get cleaned out. I can only use logic to think that a light weight trigger and short trigger throw is the best option. Since you have some numbers to work with, think about them and see if you have a need for them.
* My Freedom Brand Dog Proof Traps are tuned. I want to be out in the open about this. Since the Freedom Brand allows the tuning of the trap, I have taken advantage of this on my FB DP traps. This is one major difference when you use a advanced designed trap over a more primitive one.
One thing every trapper should have in their truck.
A can of silicon spray can save your butt some times when your out on the trap line. If you don’t have silicon spray, you can use the trusty can of WD-40. We as trappers put our traps through a lot of abuse and bad weather. If a trapper keeps his traps happy and in the dirt, rust and corrosion will happen to every one. As a trapper we have to options. We can pull the trap and clean the trap like new or we can make a quick fix in the field and get the trap back working for us.
Silicon spray is my first choice to use to lubricate a trap in the field. It is odorless and tasteless. WD-40 is not odorless or tasteless, but it will work and work well. I have used WD-40 on coyote traps that were getting in bad shape and I caught coyotes no problem. I can smell the WD-40, so I can only assume a coyote can smell it also. This may seem like a bad deal for a trapper to do, but the coyotes seem to care less. A working trap to me is far more important than a non working trap to me. I have yet to catch an animal in the yard boiling traps! Raccoons almost seem to be attracted to WD-40, so using them on dog proof traps should not be an issue at all. I have used this on dog proof traps for years with no problems at all.
Most traps have moving parts and these need to be lubricated to work right. The more precision a trap is, the more the moving parts need to work without rust and junk build up. I always spray silicon spray or WD-40 on my CDR and KB 5.5 traps once they are in the field for a month of more. These are tight traps and they both have rivets that hold the jaws in place. So I spray them to keep them working to peak performance. I will also give a shot of spray on the nut and bolt set up on my raccoon and beaver footholds if the pan gets less smooth.
I also use a lot of spray over a year on my dog proof traps. When I started using DP traps, I used the ..Little Grizz Trap. This is a very loose and sloppy trap by design. One place on the trap you have to keep your eye on is the pin the trigger rotates on. If this gets rusty, the trigger will not rotate smoothly. Most of the time you can spray this area with a lubricate. If you don’t do this, the trap will set, but the raccoon will have to pull with a lot of force to fire the trap. Most raccoons will not play this game, they have nimble fingers.
As most of you know I am fired up about the freedom Brand Dog Proof Trap. This style of trap is very different than a Little Grizz, Z-trap, Dagger or duke DP trap. The Freedom Brand DP is a precision trap. It is not a loose trap like the other traps. The precision part of the trap is why I am so impressed with it and why I think I had such good luck with it. Saying that, you need to treat this trap more like a high end foothold trap. Since it is a precision trap, you will need to keep the nut and bolt on the trap rotating freely. The nut and bolt is working the dogless trigger latch on the trap. Keep in mind this dogless trigger is the reason the trap catches more raccoon. Because it is dogless, you do not have the high trigger tension like you do on the other DP traps. So every now and then spray the nut and bolt with a shot of silicon spray or WD-40. Just like the other DP traps, the trigger rotates on a pin, so spray this area to keep it moving freely. As you can see, it does not take much more maintenance except the nut and bolt system to fire correctly and to get the easy set function of the trap to work correctly.
So if you use foothold traps or dog proof traps, make sure you have a lubricate spray in the truck for when you need it and you will need it sooner or later.
Some quick tips on adjusting foothold and dog proof traps
My dog proof raccoon trap does not fire, how to fix it.
How to adjust the trigger pull on Freedom Brand Dog Proof Trap.
My dog proof trap does not set, how to fix it.
My foothold trap pan is not level, how to fix it.
My trap pan is not level and sits to high, how to fix it.
My trap does not fire when the pan is pushed down, how to fix it.
My trap levers are not straight on my trap, how to fix it.
The jaws on my trap do not lay flat, how to fix it.
Trapping Video Review
Successful Beaver and Otter Trapping Volume #1
“Making Beaver Pay”
By Matt Jones
Video: Successful Beaver and Otter Trapping Volume #1 “Making Beaver Pay”
Video format reviewed: DVD
Video category: Beaver and Otter Trapping
Video Length: two hours
Video quality: 5-6
Audio quality: 6
Who is this designed for? Anyone who traps beaver and otter with footholds or bodygrips
Who is this not designed for? No snaring, no under ice trapping (some skim ice)
Rating system: 1-10 (1 = poor, 3 = below average, 5 = average, 7 = above average, 9-10 = excellent)
Let me tell you what’s going on here. Matt Jones spends two hours teaching about equipment, showing sets, making catches, and showing the basics of fur handling.
Matt starts the video with an intro, followed by some good straightforward advice on gaining permission to trap (cut your hair, cover up your tattoos, and take your earrings out).
Afterwards, he moves on to equipment. He extensively lists traps, bodygrip supports, and drowning systems, and what he likes, dislikes, and sometimes changes on each.
Next, Matt goes on to make sets. Matt sets next to beaver houses, in runs, on crossovers, in channels, at beaver dams, and makes castor mounds. He uses both footholds and bodygrips, but leans more heavily toward footholds on drowners. As a bonus, he also shows and sets up a muskrat float, and at one point has a surprise catch. And speaking of catches, numerous beaver and otter catches, as well as a few muskrat catches are shown throughout the video.
Matt finishes the video in the fur shed. Though this is not a fur handling video, he gives tips on washing and drying the fur. He talks about fleshing beams and knives, and gives and overview of how he fleshes a pelt.
As the subtitle says (and Matt states in the video), it’s called “Making Beaver Pay” so there isn’t any snaring (due to pelt damage caused by snares). Also, as the title says, this is volume #1. Matt mentions what he will go over in volume #2, but as of yet, there is only one video.
Overall, the video quality is good, but not great. Audio quality is fine. There are some entertaining moments in the DVD, and the video is educational. If you want to learn beaver and otter trapping with footholds and bodyrips along with tips for handling fur, Matt Jones has a video that puts it all together.
review by Brandon Mitchell
This is a neat way Albert Simpson showed me how he figured out how he supports his body grip trap in the high fence when we are in the great state of Texas. You could drive stakes, but it is a logistical nightmare if you are running a lot of traps. Plus I am always looking for ways to make my trapping easy not labor intensive.
What Albert showed me works great. It is fast and very little energy is needed to support the trap in the fence this way.
I am asking you to be a adult when I show you such things as this. I can do this on some ranches because I do not have to wory about hunting dogs or pets running around. Saying that DO NOT do this if you have a chance to catch a pet. Just because a law says you can do something does not mean it is smart to do so. So use your head when you are on the trap line. A body grip trap is a great tool, but an unforgiving tool. If you use this were pets are running around you are asking for trouble and trouble for the rest of us trappers.