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Freedom Brand Dog Proof Trap review by Ryan Nims

 Freedom Brand Dog Proof Trap review by Ryan Nims

Ryan took some of the new Freedom Brand Dog Proof raccoon traps and put them to work on his ADC line. As normal, people always sit back in front of a computer and tell everyone else why something will not work. The rumor mill has been saying the Freedom Brand DP trap has to many moving parts. Even though it really does not. Some guys are saying that it will not work in mud, I know this not to be true because of the mud balls that I had to deal with testing this trap. Just like with all new traps, double so for traps that are not a copy of another, it will have problems.

Now Ryan, went out and put these traps to the test on his trap line. He posted these two videos to show what happens when he used them. He even went as far as to cake the DP trap in mud and then catches a raccoon with it. I know how they would perform because I have already used them. Testing a trap tells the real world story, just writing about them is simply guessing.


Red O’Hearn is on Trapper radio, check it out!


I finally nailed down Red O’Hearn to give us an interview on Trapping Radio. We are both so busy at the trapping conventions that hooking up was always an issue. This year, we got it done and it is a great interview if I do say so myself.

Red O’Hearn is know for raccoon trapping and for good reason, he has been over a thousand raccoon a season for years. Sure he lives in good coon country, but he makes those catches year after year because he is the man. He knows his raccoon, his ground and his competition. He knows how to use any legal means to harvest raccoons.

Not only is Red a raccoon specialist, he takes a large pile of mink, beaver and otter. Red is one of the old time professional trappers that lives the outdoors life. He goes into this during the radio show. So go to Trapping Radio, take a load off, grab a cold drink and enjoy.


Freedom Brand Dog Proof trap used as a force multiplier on my Coyote and bobcat lines.

Freedom Brand Dog Proof trap used as a force multiplier on my Coyote and bobcat lines

As most of you know, I do not like mixed trap lines. I don’t like having to flop back and forth between water and land trapping. It is also not that effective to go from coyote trapping to mink trapping at the same time. If you do, how in the world can you laser focus on the job at hand. You can only serve one master at a time, I think I have read that somewhere before. Plus having a two separate and different groups of equipment is not efficient. But, But, But We all want to catch all the fur we can in a given day. Yep we do, but we have to be smart about it. I did a radio show on Trapping Radio about running a progressive trap line check it out if you do not follow what I am saying.

So there I am in the bowls of South Texas eating dust, dodging rattle snakes and loosing blood on cactus. I’m focused on coyotes and bobcats. I also want to pick up a freezer full of raccoon to sell in Canada. So I set out all the coyote and bobcats traps and snares I could run minus about 45 minutes. Once this was done, I started filling in the easy to set raccoon trap locations with 2-4 Freedom Brand Dog Proof Traps. I would also set up the high protein feeders that I drove next to, if they had raccoon sign.

By running my trap line this way, I meet both my goals on catches, but did not have to mix line trap to pull it off. Try this on your lines and you will see you catch go up. The reason is that you can focus on the goal at hand and not be scatter brained about it.

Clint Locklear


Trapping Red Fox in Cage box trap, on Norms ADC job

Trapping Red Fox in Cage box trap, on Norms ADC job

If you are going to trap and catch red fox in cage traps. There are two things that you as a trapper have to keep in mind. We have to keep in mind that red fox are not the super intelligent animals that the trapping industry used to promote. Saying that, they are not raccoons either. You can get crude with cage trapping raccoons, but you must tighten your game if you want to catch red fox in your box traps.

One, You need to cover the bottom of the cage with dirt, grass or leaf duff. A fox will not want to walk on the bare wire. It you think they don’t care about this, you will be checking a lot of empty traps. Our new cage trap design is very different to all other cage traps out there. Our pan is solid and goes from the door to ¾ back in the trap. No wire to walk on ever in one of our cage traps. This solid pan allows one to kick some dirt and grass on our pan and move on to the next set.

Two, Foxes seem to like to look through the cage. I guess this gives them an idea that they are not closed in as much. I don’t really know what they are thinking, so far they have refused my interrogations. The point is, is to block down the sides and top of the cage and even the back. On the back of the cage make sure they can see through it some. This might be the top third of the cage or half or one side of the cage. You want to force the fox to the front of the cage, but your not trying to make a dark cave for them to enter.

These are two small ideas, but are not small to a red fox.

Clint Locklear


Extension Cables for tying off your Bobcat, Fisher, Coyote traps, trapping out of state, questions to Clint Locklear

Hey Clint,
If I asked you about this before, I apologies up front, for asking again.
Its about Extension Cables for tying off your Bobcat, Fisher, Coyote traps, instead of using stakes or earth anchors, where trees are at etc.
In your LLT issue one, a article written by Kevin Patterson on page 27, that he used 1/8″ 7×19 cable since it does not kink like 7×7 cable does. Then in LLT issue 3, you have a article on Real Cable Stakes page 36 that your using 3/32″ & 1/8″ in the 7×7 cable.  I have watched Steve Wood bobCATching DVD’s and he uses cable extension, in 10′ or longer cable.
What ideas do you suggest?
 Steve, you are doing your home work and that is great, but brother, you have to step back and breath a little. I’m a detail guy on somethings because they are important. This is not one of those things. A cable extension is nothing but a quick way to secure an animal to a tree, brush or large rock. Its a speed tool and a simple way to get a caught animal back in the brush away from un-wanted eyes sometimes. There is no right or wrong answer on this topic. The bottom line is you need to have enough cable to reach the set from a tree and then have enough cable to go around the tree. 7×19 cable is a nice choice because it is floppy, almost like rope. It will not kink up as much or as fast as 7×7 cable or 1×19 cable. The down side is it cost more. This may or may not be a concern to you. If I could pick the best material for a extension cable, this would be it. the problem with it is the cost factor and it is not always so easy to find. 7×7 cable is the standard cable in the trapping industry. It is cheap, strong and gets the job done. It will kink quicker than 7×19 but not as much as 1×19 cable. As far as the size of the cable, it does not matter. 1/8 size cable is nice. It will last a very long time. it lays down good. It does cost a lot more than 3×32 size steel cable. From the trappers view it seems to give him a warm fuzzy, because it looks more ….professional. 3/32 7×7 steel cable is cheaper and works just as well as 1/8 cable for this purpose. I have used 5/64 and 1×16 1×19 cable to tie off coyotes, and guess what, no problems. I do think trappers go over kill on coyote gear sometimes. so 1/8, 3/32 are both the right way to go.I have never, let me say this again, I have never seen a coyote chew on the extension cable. They will work over the trap, but not the cable. They do not have the brain power we as humans have. We would work on the weaker cable and not the clunky trap or chain. So since coyotes do not chew on a extension cable like they do on a snare. it only has to be strong enough to hold the coyote or any animal in place.So what is the correct and best length of an extension cable. I’m about to go all politician on you again, sorry. It does not matter as long as you can make it work. I will say that I like longer ones 10-14 feet. This is for two reasons. One, it allows the caught animal to go deeper into cover. Second, I can almost always reach a tree where I trap without hooking two cables together. Now saying that, I have many 4-6 footers with me most of the time. If I place a set close to a tree, a longer one is not needed. If I had to pick one length for a cable extensions, if I could only have one, they would be 10-14 long. I can reach a tree 3 feet away with a 14 foot cable, but I can not reach a tree 10 feet away with a 6 foot cable. The area you trap will dictate your best length. In Texas, I could get away with all 4 footers, in the mountains of TN, 10 -14 feet is needed.  The bottom line, there is not a best size or length. they just need to work. I suggest building a few different sizes and lengths and see which size you use more than the others. Drop the sizes that sit in the truck most of the time and make more of the sizes that get used more.It is easy to get bogged down in details like a cable extension, but its not worth the worry or lost time. You have bigger fish to fry than cable extensions.  Clint


Dear Clint,
My name is B. D. and I live in MI. I am a trapper in the area and do pretty well at it. I would like to find out how to move to bigger and better things! Id like to find out who to contact so I can go to other states to trap longer. You met my son Dillon at a bank in alpena Mi and you told him if we ever had any questions to give you a call but im trying the e-mail thing. If you could find some time to give me a line or two it would be great!
B. D.

B. D.,This is a tough and open ended question for sure. First I would look around for any family, old or present friends in the are you want to trap. You will be amazed how small the world is. You know people that know people. If you can not find anyone that is on your side where you want to trap, then think about who your trapping can help. Google the place and target landowner, like hunting club, fish farms, deer farm or corn farmer. Then call them up and talk to them. You will get a ton of no’s before you get a few yes’s. Trapping out of state takes a lot of research. Also don’t forget the national and state parks across the country. There is a lot of fur in these places. Find a roach motel, campground or rent a house for a few weeks. I wish there was an easy way to do this but there is not. It takes a lot of time unless you have friends or family in the area. This is why networking is so important. Good luck



I have purchased some of you guys coon crack and I was wondering if you could tell what is most effective way to use it. In bait as a lure I wasn’t for sure i’m very excited about the product I heard clint talking about on you tube and looking forward to the productive of it so if you have time to give me the info on that I would really appreciate it thanks for your time. Chad P.
You can use it like a lure or a bait enhancer. First off, you can use it allow, Coon Crack smells good and taste good, most people use it in Dog Proof Traps.  I know of a lot of trappers, that pour it over cotton or wool and use it this way. The way I tell most trappers to use it, is to have a bait in the dog proof trap, cat food, fish pellets, etc or even a commercial raccoon dog proof trap bait like Coon Crush or even a predator bait for late in the year. I always dribble a little Coon Crack on the lip of the trap, so a raccoon will get to put it in their mouth. Then I will pour a little down over my bait that I am using.
Good luck on those raccoons,



Professional Fur Handling, by NAFA, Wisconsin Trapper’s Association, and Wisconsin DNR, video review

Trapping Video Review

Professional Fur Handling

By NAFA, Wisconsin Trapper’s Association, and Wisconsin DNR

With Rich Tischaefer, Greg Schroeder, and Brian MacMillan 

Video: Professional Fur Handling with Rich Tischaefer, Greg Schroeder, and Brian MacMillan

Video format reviewed: DVD

Video category: Fur Handling

Video Length: four disks, four-plus hours

Video quality: 6

Audio quality: 6

Entertainment: 7

Education: 9-10

Who is this designed for? Anyone who plans to process their fur

Who is this not designed for? Non-trappers

Rating system: 1-10 (1 = poor, 3 = below average, 5 = average, 7 = above average, 9-10 = excellent)


Professional Fur Handling, commonly referred to as the NAFA fur handling video or sometimes the Wisconsin Fur handling video is a unique video in the world of trapping.  Unlike most videos, it’s not available at every trapping supplier, only at the Wisconsin Trapper’s Association website.  It’s very detailed, covering many species that aren’t shown on other fur handling DVD’s, and it only costs twenty dollars. 

The video is actually four disks, and while it doesn’t state a time on the website, my estimation is over four hours in length.  On the video, you see ethics and field care for five species, sorting and grading for six species, and pelt handling for all twelve species- beaver, otter, mink, muskrat, fisher, marten, coyote, fox, bobcat, raccoon, skunk, and opossum.  

Pelt handling, with Greg Schroeder shows examples of good and bad put up jobs, and of course skinning, fleshing, and boarding of each species.  Greg often does fleshing with a cheap fleshing tool, as well as a Necker to show the difference in how each is held.  He also talks about the correct fleshing beam shape.  One thing I’d like to mention about the pelt handling segments is each animal gets its own share of time.  The opossum and skunk sections get just as much attention as the otter, bobcat, and marten sections. 

Rich Tischaefer gives discusses ethics and field care on otter, muskrat, beaver, fisher, and (I believe) raccoon.  These segments include tips like how to avoid singing otter, cleaning fur, etc.

Brian MacMillan covers sorting and grading on otter, mink, muskrat, beaver, fisher, and raccoons.  The sorting and grading segments show, through examples, the differences between hair length, thickness, color, size, and put up, and how variations in these affect the grade, and ultimately the price you receive for your fur.

Overall, the video and audio quality is good.  On all of the disks, the segments are broken down on the menu, so you can easily watch what you want to without the hassle of fast forwarding or skipping through sections.  Combined with all of the education in these segments, and the low price- just $20- it’s a deal that’s hard to pass up.

If I could only own two trapping videos, one would be a multi-species trapping DVD, and the other would be Professional Fur Handling.

Review by,   B. Mitchell


Blue Ridge Outdoor Supplies Open House, come on down!

 Blue Ridge Outdoor Supplies Open House, come on down!

I am looking forward to seeing some of you in VA at Blue Ridge Outdoors Supplies this October. Scott is holding an open house. He is doing this to say thanks to his customers, and giving them a mini- trapping convention in a way.

I will be giving some demo’s on predator trapping and I will also be there to talk trapping with who ever wants to talk about catching fur. I will also have my lures, bait and videos at the open house. So if you have been wanting to stick your noise in a bottle of mine and see what it smells like, come on down and enjoy the stink!

Blue Ridge will also have all of there products for you to inspect. Most of us like to get a hand on study before we buy a product. This will be a low key way to see what is in the trapping industry today, and what you will need to attack the fur line this fall.

I hope to see you there,

Clint Locklear


Multi-catch Raccoon cage Trap, our new trap that is like carpet bombing raccoons

Multi-catch Raccoon cage Trap, our new trap that is like carpet bombing raccoons

Like Norm says in the video, if you don’t want to catch and skin raccoons, don’t order this trap! We are fired up to get this trap into the hands of trappers. We brought this trap out at the NTA in Ohio. Fur trappers and ADC men took them home, because they could see the advantage of catching several raccoons a night, out of one trap.
We will have more info on this trap in the future. We don’t have a cute catchy name for this trap, but I think a good name would be the….Deer Feeder Guardian, Raccoon Snatcher or Raccoon Carpet Bomber. I don’t know what we will call it, if you have any ideas let us know. I guess the name could be ….deadly, because it is.
We started working on this project because we saw a need in the deer ranching industry. Raccoons were tearing up the high protein feeders and costing the ranches a lot, a whole lot of money each year. So we do what we do at Predator Control Group and find a fix for the raccoon problems we were seeing. We needed something that a ranch hand could use and not be a trapper. The trap and system are simple. This give a ranch hand a way to catch the problem raccoon without spending very much time, but have serious results for the time spent.
Now for ADC guys, who does not want to catch the whole family group and move to the next job. For the Fur Trapper, catch’em fast and catch them in groups per each stop to cut expenses and increase profits.

For prices and shipping cost, call Norm at 706-264-6277



Rub Projection set for trapping and catching bobcats

Rub Projection set for trapping and catching bobcats

The Rub Projection set has gained a lot of ground in the last few years. The reason is simple, the rub set will catch bobcats. This set is not complicated, and even though a lot of trapper-writters try and have there mojo added to it. It is a simple straight for set for bobcat trapping, so don’t complicate it. The more complex anything is the more likely it will fail.

The set is a  flat set with a twist. The lure is place at a height that the bobcat can run on the lure if they want to. Now why would I say, if they want to? Everyone has to understand that bobcats are individuals. They each get turned on by different smells and odors. Just like some bobcats get wound up on cat mint or cat nip. Some do and some don’t. The lure for a rub set, needs to be made for the rub set. I have smelled a lot of so called rub lures that are beaver lures or cat nip infused lures. I wish lure makers would use a little imagination and test what gets cats to rub at the highest degree. A modern lure maker has some amazing lure ingredients to turn a cat. Some ingredients will cause a cat to almost go into a literal cat high that will keep them rubbing the lure till they are glassy eyed and foaming at the corner of their mouth. Not all bobcats mind you, but a high percentage of them. This is why I have not come out with a RUB LURE till now. I was testing, testing, testing.

Now one thing to keep in mind on a rub set is that unless you are on a major bobcat trail, you will still need to make sure the bobcat will find your set. So make sure to use a flag and eye appeal at the set so the bobcat can find your set.

One thing I do not want to see you doing is to hang a flag over your trap. This will cost you a lot of money and missed bobcats. With a walk-through set like a rub set. The cat has a tendency to jump at the flag. This jump is not straight up, but on an angle. It may be several feet. So the bobcat could get fixated on the flag, and jump clear over your trap. I have missed a lot of bobcats till I figured this out.

Give the rub set a try, you will like it.

Clint Locklear


Trappers truck, how to keep your tires moving you down the trapline.

This is an e-mail from Steve about a subject every trapper should know about. Great infomation for sure. All trappers drive, and have tires, so lets make sure a flat tire does not slow us down. Thanks, Steve.


 You know trappin and varmits.I know mechanics.I just listened to Blackie talking about setting up a truck.This is best tire sealent I have found.
Will not hurt rims, steel or aluminum.Washes out if you have to glue a patch.A 285-17 will balance and seal with 1.5 pints of this.YOU CANNOT RUN THIS IN ROAD TIRES.I bought a new gmc grocery getter that is supposed to be a pickup.I have 30000 miles on tires and they are wearing perfect..No lead weights.This balances and seals a tire.I buy half a dozen pails at a time..I have gravel dump trailers pulling heavy that get a half more miles out of tires running this.Most of your slimes go hard after a while.This stays liquid.Titan makes a 3/4 horse air compressor
.And neally makes plug kits.
90% of tire problems fixed with no spare.You can use an oil transfer grease gun to put sealant in valve stem.


Bobcat trapping question, making a living in Predator Control, raccoon damage on ranches, questions to Clint Locklear

Hi I just watched your cat collector video. I have to say I learned alot and hope to be more successful at taking cats. Just a few questions if you don’t mind. About how wide and deep are the trenches. And I plan on modifying the pans on my mb650s but they are also used to take coyotes early in the year and I was wondering if you think that it would hurt me on them. Do you have problems with animals being on the jaws and firing the trap and it throwing their feet out of the trap and missing them. J.M.


The trench on my bobcat sets are about 2-3 inches deep on flat ground. It can be 12 inches deep if I am going into the side of a hill or a spoil bank on the side of a road. Saying that, if rain is in the forecast I will make the set on flat ground and make the trench level, but block in the sides of the trench with sticks and brush like you see on the video. If rain is a common factor when you trap like it is in most areas, a trench that is below grade will hold water and stay sloppy muddy mess. Bobcats do not like this.

I have found that about 7-8 inches is best on the width of the trench. This is plenty big to allow the bobcat to enter trench and get over you traps. To much bigger than this and the bobcat will have to many options to work the trap set and he may not get caught. Bobcats are not afraid to enter tight places.

Once you go to the big pans on your MB 650′s for bobcats, you will find that your coyote catch will increase also. I know it would seem that you would get toe catches on coyotes. To be honest, I don’t know why I don’t see very many toe catches with big pans, but I don’t. Go out to the shop and set a trap with a big pan. Lay it on the ground. Take a heavy pipe our something like it. Make sure it weighs 15-20 pounds on the end you fire the trap with. Place the pipe were it is on the end on the pan. You will see that because the pipe is heavy like a coyote or bobcat, the trap will close and rotate to get a good catch on the pipe. This is probably what happens when a coyote hits the pan and jaw at the same time. A slow trap is fast. A trap does not have the power to raise a coyotes. A coyote or bobcat is not the same as using a light stick to fire the trap like most people do to show the stick flips up. Go with the big pan and you will not want to use “normal” again.

good luck on your bobcat and coyote line this winter,




I came upon your website and was very impressed by it.  WOW, amazing!  I have a young family relative who is a dead shot, and everything outdoorsman.  I think this may be a career path for him!  Could you give me some advise, and/or information on how to start this career, or can he call one of your experts to “pick his brain” on everything predator control and how to “get into the field.” Daniel D

Daniel D,

Glad you like the our web sites and yes, your family relative could make a nice carrier in Predator Control. Kind of what you asking for is a 5 minute crash course from a car mechanic on how to take out a car motor, rebuild that motor, install that motor back into the car and then tune it. This is a very open ended question, so I will go over the basics.  First off, a person needs to spend several years learning how to trap, snare and call  predators. To be good enough to charge folks and not have them mad about the results, one must be very good at catching coyotes, bobcats, fox and nest predators. To someone on the out side of trapping, the art of trapping looks simple and it would seem that it could be learned in a few weeks or even a year. Not true, it take years for a very smart person to get at a level to target predator the way it should be done. I don’t want to discourage you family member from going down this path, but it is a reality.

Once a guy or girl gets to a high level of trapping skills, he has to get other folks to pay him or her. This is were most want to be predator control companies fall on their face. Predator control is a business like any other business. It is a super tight niche market. As your family member learns how to trap in fall, winter, spring and summer (all very different), he needs to be learning the business side of predator control. I think trapping is about 30-40% of a trapping business. The rest is the art of getting customers.

I hope you don’t take this wrong way, but picking my or one of my guys brains on all thing “predator Control”, would take a couple of days on the trapping and 12 -14 hours on the business side. We do this, but we charge for it. We love helping trappers, but we have to make a living also. We charge for personal instruction or for one of out trapping schools on predator control. The instruction is for two days to a full week, all day long. We also have a business course that we teach guys that want to make a living trapping it is 14 hours long.  
I would recommend that your family member, trap everyday this fall and winter for fur. First things first, does he like trapping or will he get burnt out on it in a few weeks or months. Please don’t take this response the wrong way. I am a cheerleader to anyone one that wants to follow a dream. I help people do this all the time. But one has to understand the reality of that dream and what the road to meet that dream will be like. This is not an easy job or business to get right year after year. Can it be done, you bet! If he wants to go down this road I hope he makes it better than I have.



Hello Clint,
I have talked to you at several conventions and listen to Trapping Radio religiously.  I have a question about ADC work.  I am looking for an monetary estimate, that I can show clients, on how much deer feed is consumed by coons.  These are clients that use high protein feed and have several feeders set up on their property.  I am not sure if you could help me out with an estimate but any info would be greatly appreciated.  It would be nice if I could show a client that  X amount of dollars in feed is being consumed by coons and not deer.  I know it varies with each property/client  but anything that you have discovered in your experiences would help. 
Thanks for all the great info and videos.  Wolfernation is awesome! 
I will also be at the WV convention in September.  So I will stop by and say hey.

 I don’t know about a hard paper study. But I have talked to several biologist in Texas and some of these guys put some time into coming up with a figure. What I was told was 2-4 pounds a day. So I use the middle ground of 3 pounds. I explain this to customers. There is no case study that Texas A&M has done that I have found. The wild card that all land owners understand is the waste a raccoon does while scraping out feed and then rots down. The figures on larger ranches can be $30,000 to $75,000. Numbers don’t lie, they are just numbers. Raccoon damage numbers can be more simple for a land owner to grasp than predation from coyote or bobcats. You on the right path with your ADC business. Guess amount of raccoon, x number feeders then x 3 pounds of feeds divide this number with cost of high protein food to get damage cost. See you in WV,Clint



Freedom Brand Dog Proof Trap, a great video for a close look at trap from QSR, check it out.

 Freedom Brand Dog Proof Trap, a great video for a close look at trap from QSR

I make no bones about this, I’m sold on the new Freedom Brand Dog Proof raccoon Trap. This will be the only DP trap that will be in my muddy and chapped hands this fall and winter fur trapping. It will also be the one that I will trust on my nest predator jobs. As you can tell I’m a fan of the trap. Why? Freedom Brand has brought the dog proof trap into the same category as the high end coil spring foothold traps, but without the cost. We in the industry have needed this jump up in quality for some years now.

QSR has made a very informative video for you to get an up-close and personal look at this high performance trap. To see this video, Click Here.

Here are some things you will see and get a close look at on the video. Quade from QSR is the host on this video and also the brain trust behind the design on the new DP trap.

  1. Introduction to the Freedom Brand Dog Proof Trap
  2. How to set the trap. It is so easy to set, you may think you are missing something. Your not, it is that quick and is that simple.
  3. How to stabilize the Freedom Brand Dog Proof Trap in dirt.
  4. How to set the trap on concrete, rocks or even Ice. This is with their stabilization platform. Your brain will go into over drive with places you have had a hard time setting traps in the past. Now, you can set the Freedom Brand Dog Proof Trap with mind blowing speed.
  5. How to use a bracket to set the DP on the side of a tree, barn post or crossing log. This is a god send to guys that want there traps on location no matter what.
  6. How to modify the trigger on the Freedom Brand Dog Proof Trap.
  7. How you file the trigger to get a quick firing trap. Quade also shows you how to add trigger tension if you feel the need.
  8. Replacement parts for the Freedom Brand Dog Proof Trap.
  9. How to take apart the DP trap. Very simple to do. Anyone can do it after watching this video.
  10. How to clean trap after you throw them into the shed for several months with grit, grim and sticky stuff in-crusted all over the trap. You know, we raccoon trapper can abuse some equipment and we all need to know how to clean up the gear before prime time hits.
  11. Correct nut and bolt tension on the Freedom Brand Dog Proof Trap.

This is a great video for you to get a feel for the trap. Check it out. Just keep in mind these traps are not happy unless you keep them busy making you money this fall and winter. Happy trap, happy trapper, this is about good as it gets for a raccoon trapper. I don’t know about you but, I’m starting to get wound up tighter than a eight day clock waiting for the green light to say GO, GO, GO this trapping season!


How to catch a Red Fox in a cage box trap. Red fox caught by Norm Blackwell.

How to catch a Red Fox in a cage  box trap.

As most of you know I have really gotten in to playing with cage traps for a few years now. This is for many different reasons and for different areas on the trap line. We are nailing bobcats in our cage traps, we are catching beaver and otter in cage traps, mink, raccoon, muskrats and fox. Yep even red fox. I just back from Maine were we shot a sort video on using a Swedish trap to catch hawks and other birds of prey for state agencies, colleges and game farms. So you can see cage traps have there place on any trappers line for different reasons. Are cage traps the answer to everything, absolutely NO! What cage traps do for any trapper is that they give you options. We all have places that we KNOW we can catch fur and make money, but a snare or foothold trap is pushing our comfort level.

The Red Fox was taken is one of our cage traps on a golf course. People are every where and not all of them support trapping. Norm Blackwell was hired to trap some red fox that were tearing up the golf course. Traps might cause a problem in such an exposed area, but a good cage trap, no problem. Norm set the trap for fox and nailed him. He took grass clippings from the area and covered our front to back long pan in the trap. Blocked of the sides of the trap with brush and grass. Made sure the trap was bedded rock sold. To get the the fox into the cage he used two lures in a mock bird nest in the back of the trap. Norm used his Cherry Red and Predator Control Groups Grey Gitter lure. Results speak for them self. The cage and lure did its job.
Now if Norm can catch fox on his ADC jobs, why can’t you catch red fox were you might not want to use foothold traps on your own trap line? A well rounded trapper catches fur anywhere and he or she knows how to pick and use the gear needed to catch the target animal.


How to flag a bobcat while cat trapping, a new stand idea that is killer while catching bobcats

 How to flag a bobcat while cat trapping, a new stand idea that is killer while catching bobcats

While at the Texas Predator School this year, A student (Greg) pulled out a stand for his bobcat flags while we were setting bobcat traps. As most of you know, I am a flag believer in the highest degree. I use flags for most if not all may bobcat, grey fox  and raccoon sets. Greg had a simple but very effective bobcat flag system.

Trappers always are thinking and finding a better way. I don’t know of another industry that can think out side of the box like we can. We want a better system, so we ponder on it, experiment and make it happen. Trappers always amaze me with their practical mindset. This mindset is how Greg came up with, what I consider a game changer to bobcat trapping.

He built a portable stand for hanging a bobcat flag. It is self-supporting and can be used any where. This is so important for speed and setting a bobcat trap where the trapper wants to put it. No longer does the trapper have to pick an “off” location to get proper flag placement. With this stand, pick the best location. Slam in a great trap set and then place the flag in front of it. I can tell you that I bought the ones he had down in Texas and I was wishing he had brought 30-40 more for me to buy.

The stand is simple and not to expensive to build. First take a 6 foot section of 5/16 cold or hot roll steel rod. On the bottom of the rod wield a foot. It is a half of a upside down U shape. This will keep the rod from moving around on you. Then on the top of the rod, wield a section of #9 wire. About two feet seems about right. Done! Basically your making a very tall snare support. Add your flag to the end of the #9 wire and your rock’n and rolling.

If your chasing bobcats this fall are winter, you will want to make you up some up. If you only make a few, you will be sorry once you find out how handy this system is.


3rd Annual Sportsmen’s Banquet, Silent & Live Auction held by the Idaho Trappers

3rd Annual Sportsmen’s Banquet, Silent & Live Auction ~
Proudly Presented by the FurBearers Unlimited and Idaho Trappers Association

Saturday, August 17th, 2013
5:00 pm – Doors Open – Silent Auction & Games Begin
7:30 pm – Dinner
Hilton Garden Inn – Boise Spectrum
7699 W. Spectrum Street
Boise, ID 83709
For special room rates call (208) 376-1000 or you can reserve online:

DOOR PRIZES, BALLOONS, GAMES…Fun for the entire family!

Click HERE for more information on the Gun of the Year 2013 Drawing.

Click HERE for printable registration form to the Banquet, Silent & Live Auction.

Direct registration forms & questions to:
Patrick Carney
(208) 599-5009

Michelle Gutierrez, Banquet Coordinator
P.O. Box 405
Mountain Home, ID 83647 – (208) 587-5931

For Your Convenience, you can now purchase your tickets online with Paypal! Most major credit cards accepted.
Please select if you are male, female, or a child so that we may enter you for the appropriate door prize!
Kids 4 and under are FREE!!
If you cannot attend, but would like to support the Association, you can purchase Banquet Tickets and be entered
into the Door Prize Drawings. The Door Prizes are firearms; men’s, women’s, and children’s are all separate drawings.  Please specify in the checkout process if you are NOT attending so we do not purchase a meal with the funds.



Trapping Video Review by Brandon M., Cat Collector DVD by Clint Locklear

Trapping Video Review

Cat Collector

By Clint Locklear


Video: Cat Collector by Clint Locklear

Video format reviewed: DVD

Video category: Bobcat trapping

Video Length: four hours

Video quality: 7-8

Audio quality: 6-7

Entertainment: 7

Education: 9

Who is this designed for? Bobcat trapping with footholds

Who is this not designed for? Not a snaring video, no snow trapping/trapping in bucket cubbies

Rating system: 1-10 (1 = poor, 3 = below average, 5 = average, 7 = above average, 9-10 = excellent)



Cat Collector, by Clint Locklear is a four hour (yes you heard me right) DVD on catching bobcats. It teaches all aspects of luring in cats with their eyes and nose, shows how to build sets to increase your catch per visit ratio, and then reinforces the lessons learned with night footage of cats working sets.

As far as the technicalities go, the video quality is above average.  The audio quality is very good.  Occasionally, there is some wind noise, and the volume changes between a couple of segments, but it’s minimal. The video is also entertaining, and most importantly extremely educational.

After the intro to the video, Clint wastes little time putting us on the line to start building sets.  We see a number of different ways to make sets using conventional and not so conventional tools.  The tools are used to build two types of sets, trench/dirthole sets, and flat sets, and we get to see different variations of these multiple times throughout the video.

After the digging is done, Clint focuses on trap location.  This is not your average, “stick the trap in front of the hole” education, but in fact a lesson on increasing your catch percentage by moving your trap much further back than you normally see.  Then Clint shows how to block in the set to eliminate safe ground for the cat to step.

Besides trap location and blocking, Clint does something else that you won’t see on the average trapping video.  He uses expanded pans to increase the “trigger area” of the trap, and often uses two traps at sets to increase his catch percentage even more. 

Another nuance to his unique sets are the drags.  I’ve always been afraid of using drags in fear of losing the animal, but the Saber-Tooth drags Clint uses in the video aren’t like your traditional two-pronged drags (see how long it takes the Clint and Scott to find a cat on a traditional drag in heavy cover and you’ll know why he prefers the Saber-Tooth’s). 

The last part of his sets are the first thing the cats see, and that’s flagging, and just like every other aspect of bobcat trapping, Clint goes into detail about both flagging materials and flagging placement as it relates to the way a cat sees and then works the set. 

After the initial setup, we see numerous catches, as well as night footage of cats and a “silver fox” working sets.  Sometimes the cats are caught, and sometimes they aren’t and you start to see why you should block your sets well and where you should and shouldn’t put lure at your sets.

In addition to all of this, you’ll also learn about using peat moss, more details on flagging, trapping around a full moon, trapping during breeding season, using larger traps/two traps with expanded pans, using longspring traps, equipment that Clint uses on the line, and more.  You’ll also get a treat to see a bonus “big kitty” and feral hog catch.

Overall, this four hour, two disk set is well worth the price.  Of the four bobcat videos I own, I would rank this one first.  If you have cats on your line, this video should be in your trapping library. I highly recommend it.




I Love My Job 2, what Predator Control Group has been up too last year.

I Love My Job 2, what Predator Control Group has been up too last year.


Gallon size Gator Bait, Bobcat cage traps, Bridger # 4 traps, questions to Clint Locklear

Is it possible to order a gallon size of GATOR bait and if so how much. Thanks. Rob

Rob, I do sell Gator Bait in a Gallon Size, most of the time. The reason I say this is that I don't inventory gallon size of baits. I will be glad to make gallon size baits if I home and have bait on hand. This may seem strang, but if I'm off trapping some where, then Cindy (my wife), will not be pouring gallon baits. She does a lot for me, but I can't expect her to get head deep in a 30 gallon barrel of bait. So, if you want Gator Bait in a gallon, give me a call and I will get you one or more out. The cost is $80. This will save you some money.



Hey Clint,
What is your take on the Bridgers #4 DLS traps?

I don’t really have one. I have not used them. They seem like they will work with no problem. I know they cost a little less. If I am not mistaken, they are a 6 inch jaw spread. The Sleepy Creeks are 6.5 in jaw spread. This gives me a little bigger area to add an expanded pan. I do know that Tim Caven is always improving his traps. Since you bring them up, I will give them another look at the NTA. I have always used the Sleepy Creek long springs and have not looked around much. If you use the, let me know what you see and the good, the bad or ugly with them. I would like to here what you learned.



Clint, love your videos. I was contemplating asking the TN TWRA to consider a change to the trapping regs to allow Offset traps IN ADDITION to the current padded jaw traps. Wanted to get your thoughts and input on offset traps vs. rubber jaws. Thanks David


I hope you have luck doing this change. We as trappers in Tennessee need a better foothold laws for sure. The BMP’s showed the rubber jaw traps to be a lacking in the real world. What the BMP’s did show is that off-set and laminated traps was the best for animal concerns and trappers efficiency. As much as I hope you find a open mind with the TWRA, I have a feeling you will hit a political brick wall. Our foothold laws are all political and zero from science. Things do change and you might find an open mind to work with. Good luck on this. You might be the right guy to make this happen.

Rubber jaws sounds good to a soccer mom, but I don’t like them. I have had many sub-standard results with them. Laminated and off-set traps are the best set up for coyotes, bobcats and a pet that is running wild. Rubber does not allow very much blood flow and the off-set does. It does not take a rocket scientist to understand blood flow is a good thing.



Just watched the video on the new cage trap for bobcats, where can I get a couple of these traps?? Thanks, Greg

Once you get your hands on one of these traps, you will be smiling from ear to ear. They are sweet. Norm Blackwell is building then in his shop in North GA. When we brought these to market we had no idea how many trappers would want them. That being said, we will have some of our Bobcat cages at the NTA. After that, we could ship them. I know Blue Ridge Outdoor Supplies is carrying them and I think Jeb from Okie cable and Trap will also have some in inventory. Norm can ship them, but that is not cheap. We are working on a better way to ship them to keep cost down. We will have some at the WV and NC trapping convention. The best thing to do is to call Norm at 706-264-6277 and see what he has on hand or can turn loose. I think most of the traps he has built are already sold.



Freedom Brand Dog Proof Trap, Clint testing the trap in Texas around deer high protein feeders.

Freedom Brand Dog Proof Trap, Clint testing the trap in Texas around deer high protein feeders


54th Annual National Trappers Association Convention 2013

54th Annual  National Trappers Association Convention 2013

August 1-4, 2013
Allen County Fairgrounds
2750 Harding Highway
Lima, OH 45804
Phone 419-228-7141

I hope to see all of you at the NTA Convention this year, please stop by and say hello! I have a feeling this is going to be a bang up show. I can’t think of a  better way to spend a few day than with your fellow trappers, favorite supply dealers and friends you have not seen in a while or maybe the friend you have not meet yet.


The Demo list for the NTA Convention. You will find a lot of good info and demo’s at this years show. You will always learn from other trappers if you open you mind.  If your new to trapping or have been in trapping a long time, learning is the goal and these demo’s are free. So take advantage of them.

Thursday, August 1

9:00 Corky Klausing  giving a Mink Demo

10:00 * Clint Locklear Beaver & Otter, I will be mixing up the two critters this year. Both are bring good money and I hope I can help you catch a few more.

11:00 Jim Comstock from New York, Cage Trapping

12:00 Darin Freeborough Eastern Woods Coyotes (you can listen to a interview with Darin on Trapping Radio)

1:00 Jim Geffert Fox Trapping

2:00 * Mark Stackhouse Mink Trapping

3:00 Dave Linkart  Raccoon trapping

4:00 Rally Hess from SD will be going over Snaring and Snare Building

5:00 Don Graves Canine Water Set

Friday, August 2

8:00 Harry Nestell talking trapping Racoons with Dog Proof Traps

9:00 Derk Shearer Wildlife Nuisance Control

10:00 * Bob Jameson  from PA covering Lures/Cat Trapping

11:00 Jerry Schilling Turtle Trapping and Cleaning

12:00 Fur Harvestors

1:00 Alex Vedrinski Calls of the Wild

2:00 * Mark June Canine Trapping

3:00 Jeff Dunnier Beaver

4:00 Tony Townsend Predator Trapping

5:00 The one and only Mark Kohler teaching Snaring

Saturday, August 3

9:00 John Graham from MT, Canines and Cats

10:00 * Hal Sullivan Beaver and Otter

11:00 Jeff Robinson Canine Trapping

12:00 NAFA Fur Grading

1:00 Pete Wise Wolf Trapping

2:00 * Trent Masterson Raccoon Trapping with DP Traps

3:00 Scott Welch Trapping Theories and Techniques, This is one demo you will not want to miss. Scott is a ball of fur catching energy.

4:00 Art Scott Fox Trapping

5:00 Kendall Obermier Raccoon and Mink Trapping


*NTA MEMBERS ONLY . You will need to be a NTA member to watch these demos.

Classroom Seminars
1:00 Mark Mohr – Soap & Candle Making;
3:00 Fritz Furs – Blocking, Pattern Cutting & Sewing Furs
Friday: 10:00 Carol Daniels – Taxidermy; 2:00  NTA/Affiliates Sit Down;
3:00  Tim Ackerman – Trap Modification
Saturday: 10:00 Tom Parr – Antique Trap Collecting;
2:00 NTA/Affiliates Sit Down; 3:00 Tony Townsend – Trapping in Australia






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